Nothing says I love you like an airport pick up. After making it through immigration, my friend Brendan and his cousin Alex were waiting for me, reggaeton playing as I got into the back seat.
Driving into Medellin at night, the lights twinkle like stars. I let that wash over me as Feid and Blessd pumped in the background. Those twinkling lights would continue to mesmerize me the rest of my trip.
I settled into my Laureles airbnb, slept in, then stumbled to Pergamino for coffee. With my pathetic Spanish I ordered a vanilla latte (para aqui? ayer? aqui.). As I scouted the courtyard for a perfect spot, my eye caught the gaze of a woman who looked like a former colleague. Could that be Catherine? When I worked with her, she was 30ish, and the group she was with looked like they were in their 20s. I decided to let it go.
I picked a bright sunny table and sat down to write my morning pages. Nearby was a brown daschund, who reminded me of my dog Lola. As I stared at this daschund, I realized Lola was more daschund than chihuahua. Her long body, her affectionate eyes and expressive eyebrows, her gentle stroll. I felt comforted by the presence of a dog so like my own.
As this Catherine look alike was getting up to leave, I couldn’t shake the feeling that it was her. I followed her out and barked out: “excuse me, is your name Catherine?” Her face lit up as she responded: “yes and are you Jiaxin?” We hadn’t seen each other in 12 years, yet here we were, in the same place at the same time at those exact geographic coordinates.
This first day in Colombia really set the tone for the rest of my trip. My body brimmed with optimism as to what magic lie ahead. As I reflect on my time there, below are some of my most poignant memories:
Seeing scarlet macaws (guacamayos) soaring through the blue sky at Jardin the Medellin Botanical Gardens. Admission is free, you just need your passport #.
Riding the cable car up to Parque Arvi and witnessing the transition from densely urban to forest treetops.
Watching a motorcycle street show in Barrio Antioquia.
Soaking in Medellin in the evening, from both the southeast corner in Las Palmas and the northeast.
Absorbing a more nuanced narrative about the conflict in Colombia, beyond the narrow Narcos narrative, contextualized at Casa Memoria and by the local guides at Casa Kolacho.
Walking along the river and taking in the lights.
Things I want to try next time:
Back to the botanical garden for the butterfly house (I missed the last entrance 20min before closing)
Longer trails in Parque Arvi
More restaurants
Day trip to Guatape
Hanging out at the skate park
The planetarium
Misc tips n tricks:
Top up on a metro card. Try to ride that over ubers/taxis when possible, rush hour traffic sucks.
The metro will be packed during rush hour. Try to avoid this time if possible, but if you can’t, be prepared for queues to get onto the subway and to be packed in like sardines.
Moto ubers were fun. I felt so alive zipping through the city this way.
I can’t wait to go back.
Inspiration du jour
🎵 Love by John Lennon. Lotus by Wayne Shorter. Pale Blue Light by Jessie Ware.
📚“Winter Counts”, a story of revenge, addiction, and healing on a South Dakota reservation. I was immediately hooked. “Felicity” by Mary Oliver. I am soothed by her words, by her devotion to nature.
🍿Being John Malkovich. I love Maxine’s energy, particularly her monologue about the people who go after what they want and the people who don’t.
📺 What We Do in the Shadows. I forgot how great this show was. Season 5 ep 1 starts with the vampires discovering American malls. Check it out for a chuckle.
That’s it for this edition – take care until the next.
XO JZ
I love this I’m ready to take my own trip